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RV Towing & Weight Safety Checklist — Know Before You Tow
The complete towing and weight safety checklist for travel trailer and fifth wheel owners. Covers payload, tongue weight, GVWR, the 80% safety rule, and how to verify your specific vehicle and RV combination is safe — not just rated, but actually safe with real-world gear and passengers.
Checklist
Know Your Numbers — Before You Buy or Tow (6)
1. Look up your tow vehicle's maximum towing capacity
This number varies by year, engine, axle ratio, cab configuration, and packages. The same truck model can have a 3,000 lb difference between trims. Look up your exact vehicle at https://mintrv.com/tow-calculator to get the spec for your specific configuration.
2. Look up your tow vehicle's maximum payload capacity
Payload is everything added to the truck — passengers, cargo in the bed, tongue weight from the trailer, and anything in the cab. This number is on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door jamb or at https://mintrv.com/tow-calculator for your specific vehicle.
3. Look up your RV's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
GVWR is the maximum the trailer is allowed to weigh fully loaded — dry weight plus water, propane, gear, and everything inside. This is on the federal weight sticker near the RV entry door or on the RV's spec page at https://mintrv.com
4. Look up your RV's dry weight and hitch/tongue weight
Dry weight is the empty trailer. Hitch weight (tongue weight for bumper pull, pin weight for fifth wheel) is how much of the trailer's weight pushes down on the tow vehicle. Find your exact RV specs at https://mintrv.com — we have 70,000+ RV specifications.
5. Calculate the 80% safe towing threshold
Take your max towing capacity and multiply by 0.80. This is your real-world safe towing limit. The remaining 20% accounts for wind, hills, altitude, and the fact that manufacturer max ratings assume perfect conditions with zero cargo. Use https://mintrv.com/tow-calculator — it calculates this automatically and shows you green, yellow, or red compatibility.
6. Verify your RV's loaded weight is under your 80% safe towing threshold
This is the single most important number in towing safety. If your loaded trailer exceeds 80% of your tow vehicle's max rating, you're in the caution zone. Over 100% is dangerous and illegal in most states. The MintRV Tow Calculator at https://mintrv.com/tow-calculator factors in water, propane, passengers, and gear weight to show your real margin.
Tongue Weight & Payload (6)
7. Verify tongue weight is 10-15% of total loaded trailer weight (bumper pull)
Too little tongue weight causes trailer sway. Too much overloads the rear axle and lifts the front tires. The sweet spot is 10-15% for bumper pull travel trailers.
8. Verify pin weight is 15-25% of total loaded trailer weight (fifth wheel)
Fifth wheels carry more weight on the hitch point because the pin is over the rear axle. 15-25% is the typical range. Check your fifth wheel's pin weight spec at https://mintrv.com for your specific model.
9. Subtract tongue weight from your payload capacity
Tongue weight counts against your truck's payload — not just towing capacity. After subtracting tongue weight, you must still have room for passengers, cargo in the cab, and anything in the truck bed. This is the number most people miss.
10. Account for passenger weight in your payload calculation
Every person in the truck counts against payload. The industry standard is 150 lbs per person, but use actual weights for accuracy. A crew cab with 4 adults eats 600+ lbs of payload before you add anything else.
11. Account for anything in the truck bed or cab — toolbox, coolers, firewood, dogs
If it's in or on the truck, it's payload. Truck bed toolboxes alone can weigh 100-200 lbs. A full cooler is 40-60 lbs. It adds up fast.
12. Verify total payload does not exceed the truck's payload capacity
Tongue weight + passengers + bed cargo + cab cargo must be less than the payload number on your door sticker. Exceeding payload is just as dangerous as exceeding towing — it affects braking, steering, and suspension.
Hitch & Connection Safety (6)
13. Verify your hitch receiver is rated for the loaded trailer weight
Hitch receivers are rated by class. Class III handles up to 5,000 lbs. Class IV handles up to 10,000 lbs. Class V handles up to 16,000+ lbs. The hitch rating must meet or exceed your loaded trailer weight — not your dry weight.
14. Verify the hitch ball size matches the trailer coupler exactly
Common sizes: 1-7/8 inch, 2 inch, and 2-5/16 inch. Using the wrong size ball is one of the most dangerous mistakes in towing — the coupler can bounce off during travel. Verify every single time you hitch up.
15. Install and adjust weight distribution hitch if your trailer requires one
Most travel trailers over 5,000 lbs loaded weight need a weight distribution (WD) hitch. It redistributes tongue weight across all axles for level, stable towing. If your truck squats in the rear when hitched, you need a WD hitch.
16. Verify safety chains are rated for the trailer GVWR — not the dry weight
Safety chains are the backup if the coupler fails. They must be rated for the full loaded weight (GVWR). Cross them under the hitch so the tongue lands in the cradle if it drops. Leave enough slack for turns but not enough to drag.
17. Verify fifth wheel hitch is properly mounted and jaw is locked (fifth wheel only)
Check that the kingpin is fully seated in the jaw and the locking mechanism is engaged. Pull forward slightly to test — the trailer should not separate. Check the mounting bolts in the truck bed are torqued to spec.
18. Test breakaway switch cable
The breakaway switch activates the trailer brakes if the trailer separates from the tow vehicle. The cable must be attached to the truck frame (not the hitch). Pull the pin and verify the trailer brakes lock up. Reinsert the pin.
Brake Controller & Trailer Brakes (4)
19. Verify brake controller is installed and functioning
Required in most states for any trailer with brakes (typically over 3,000 lbs). The brake controller sends a signal to the trailer brakes when you press the truck brake pedal. Factory-installed or aftermarket — it must work before you tow.
20. Calibrate brake controller gain for the loaded trailer weight
The gain setting controls how aggressively the trailer brakes engage. Too low and the truck does all the braking. Too high and the trailer brakes lock up. Start at the middle setting, tow at 25 mph, brake firmly, and adjust until the truck and trailer stop together smoothly.
21. Manually activate trailer brakes to verify they work
Most brake controllers have a manual activation slider or button. With the trailer connected and on flat ground, slide it and feel for the trailer brakes grabbing. If nothing happens, check the 7-pin connector and trailer brake wiring.
22. Inspect trailer brake wiring at the 7-pin connector
Corrosion, bent pins, and loose connections are the #1 cause of trailer brake failure. Clean the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. Verify the plug seats fully and the locking tab engages.
Tires & Load Ratings (5)
23. Check tire load ratings on both the tow vehicle and trailer
Every tire has a load rating stamped on the sidewall. The combined load rating of all tires on an axle must exceed the weight on that axle. Overloaded tires overheat and blow out — the most common towing emergency.
24. Inflate tires to the pressure specified for towing — not the standard pressure
Towing pressure is often higher than unloaded pressure. Check the door placard on the truck for the loaded/towing specification. Trailer tires should be inflated to the max pressure on the sidewall.
25. Check tire age on the trailer — replace if older than 5-7 years
Trailer tires fail from age and UV, not mileage. The DOT date code on the sidewall shows the manufacturing week and year (e.g., 2419 = week 24 of 2019). Many blowouts happen on tires that look fine but are simply old.
26. Verify you have a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench that fits the trailer
Your truck jack probably won't reach the trailer axle. Your truck lug wrench probably won't fit the trailer lug nuts. 99% of tire shops don't stock trailer tires. Be self-sufficient.
27. Consider a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) for both truck and trailer
A TPMS alerts you to pressure drops and temperature spikes in real time. You can't feel a trailer tire going low from the cab. By the time you see smoke in the mirror, the tire is already destroyed.
Weigh Your Rig — Don't Guess (6)
28. Locate a CAT scale or certified truck scale near your route
CAT scales are at most truck stops (Pilot, Flying J, Love's). It costs about $15 to weigh. The Weigh My Truck app shows nearby locations. This is the only way to know your actual loaded weights.
29. Weigh the truck and trailer together (combined gross weight)
Pull onto the scale with the trailer attached. This gives you the total combined weight. Compare this to your truck's GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).
30. Weigh the tow vehicle alone (without the trailer)
Unhitch and weigh just the truck with everything in it — passengers, gear, full fuel tank. This confirms you're within the truck's GVWR.
31. Calculate actual tongue weight from the two scale readings
Combined weight minus truck-only weight gives you an approximation of the trailer weight on the ground. For precise tongue weight, use a tongue weight scale at home before the trip.
32. Compare actual weights to your rated capacities
If any number exceeds its rating — towing capacity, payload, GVWR, or tire load — you must reduce weight before driving. Use the MintRV Tow Calculator at https://mintrv.com/tow-calculator to model different gear and passenger combinations and find your actual safety margin.
33. Redistribute weight if one side is heavier than the other
An unbalanced trailer causes sway. Heavy items should be low and centered — over the axles, not in the front or rear. Side-to-side balance matters too. If the trailer leans, move heavy items to the light side.
Tow Vehicle Prep (6)
34. Check transmission fluid level and condition
The transmission works harder than any other component while towing. Fluid should be at the correct level, red or pink in color, and not smell burnt. Dark brown or burnt-smelling fluid needs to be changed before towing.
35. Verify transmission cooler is functioning (aftermarket or factory)
Transmission overheating is the #1 mechanical towing failure. If your truck has an aftermarket cooler, check the lines for leaks. If you're towing near your truck's capacity, an aftermarket transmission cooler is cheap insurance.
36. Engage tow/haul mode before driving
Tow/haul mode adjusts shift points to reduce gear hunting on hills and may enable exhaust braking. Engage it before you leave — not after you're already struggling on the first hill.
37. Set tow mirrors to see past both sides of the trailer
You must be able to see past the widest point of the trailer on both sides. If your factory mirrors aren't wide enough, use clip-on or replacement tow mirrors. It's illegal in most states to tow without adequate mirror visibility.
38. Plan your route to avoid steep grades if you're near your towing limit
Mountain passes that are no problem for an empty truck can overheat the transmission and brakes with a loaded trailer. Use an RV GPS or plan ahead with route elevation profiles. Know your truck's grade rating.
39. Monitor transmission temperature during the first tow
If your truck has a trans temp gauge, watch it. Normal is 175-220°F. Above 250°F is dangerous — pull over, leave the engine running, and let it cool in neutral. If you don't have a gauge, consider adding one.